Nurses day 2008
Book Notes - Jennifer 8. Lee (”The Fortune Cookie Chronicles”)
In the Book Notes series, authors create and discuss a music playlist that is in some way relevant to their recently published books.
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The Fortune Cookie Chronicles examines the roots of what we Americans call Chinese food. Jennifer 8. Lee does more than track down the origins of dishes like chow mein, General Tso’s chicken, and fortune cookies. She delves into the human trafficking that brings restaurant workers to the US and even explores the special connection between Chinese food and Jewish people.
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I have long been a fan of Lee’s writing in the New York Times, and her first book is a jewel. Combining research with her own personal narrative as a second generation Chinese-American, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles is as much about America (and being an American) as it is about Chinese takeout.
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The Washington Post wrote of the book:
“Where Lee really shines, though, is in describing the people who have cooked, served and delivered America’s favorite cuisine. ‘The Fortune Cookie Chronicles’ isn’t just about the popularization of Chinese food; it’s also a story of Chinese immigrants in America. Lee not only traces the history of 19th-century Chinese railroad workers and what they ate and cooked, she also tells the tale of the Golden Venture, a ship full of 286 illegal immigrants that ran aground in Queens, N.Y., in 1993. Most of the immigrants were restaurant workers from Fujian province, looking for a better life in America, only to find red tape and prison awaiting them. ‘There is a fairly good chance that the Chinese restaurant worker who cooked your roast pork fried rice, or the woman who took your order on the phone, or the deliveryman who showed up at your door paid tens of thousands of dollars for the privilege of doing so.’”
In her own words, here is Jenny 8. Lee’s Book Notes essay for her book, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles:
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My book, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, argues that Chinese food is all-American. After all, there are more Chinese restaurants in this country than McDonalds, Burger King and KFCs combined. If our benchmark for Americanness is apple pie, how often do you eat apple pie? Now how often do you eat Chinese food?
A lot of the foods that we think of as Chinese are actually more American and all but unknown in China: General Tso’s chicken, beef with broccoli (broccoli is originally an Italian vegetable), chop suey, egg rolls, fortune cookies. Especially fortune cookies. I was born in the United States and remember learning when I was around 13 that fortune cookies weren’t Chinese from Amy Tan’s The Joy Luck Club. That was stunning to me because of course they were Chinese, we always got them in Chinese restaurants! It was like learning that I was adopted and there was no Santa Claus at the same time. It was a complete shattering of the myth of identity.
My book tells the tales about the people and the history that bring the food to the table.
Unfortunately, I’m actually stunningly musically illiterate so I had to tap my friend Brendan Kredell, a DJ-film grad student, for his deep knowledge of music. These songs, with the exception of Vienna Teng, are not chosen for their musical-ness as they are for their blatant thematic connection to the topic of my book: Chinese food, immigration, the American dream. (So thanks to Brendan, who helped me assemble this list). A few of them stretch back a bit and give a sense of how perceptions of Chinese and Chinese food have shifted throughout American history.
1) Louis Prima and Keely Smith, “Chop Suey, Chow Mein” (Breaking It Up!, Columbia - 1951) A song by Louis Prima, and one that’s arguably somewhat racist. But it’s a song about chop suey, chow mein and something called “too-foo,” which may be how mid-century Americans ordered tofu, or how mid-century American songwriters managed to make things rhyme.
2) The Ramones, “Chop Suey” (Get Crazy soundtrack, Embassy - 1983) Chop Suey is the biggest culinary joke that one culture has played on another, and is the subject of one chapter of my book. Americans once thought that chop suey was the national dish of China and ado
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